new orleans

shoo! i meant to post as soon as i got back from the Big Greazy while things were still fresh in my mind. but that time has past and now i'm packing my freshly unpacked bag to attend my grandmother's funeral in Des Moines, Iowa, on Wednesday. She passed away peacefully, in her own house, in her own bed, on Saturday morning, with all her faculties about her -- just like she wanted. she turned 91 years old October 4th. she was a great lady. sassy right til the end. so i'm going to pay my respects and be with my mama and the rest of the family. but especially my mama.

so. new orleans. Hoo! New Orleans looks GREAT! I know you're supposed to say that about people you haven't seen in a while, but wow. Everyone had their best Halloween trimmings on the house and yard. Here are a few of my favorites:

Tim and I spent our first night back in the legendary Columns Hotel. Here's our room:

and of course we had folks over for cocktails in the Columns' equally legendary bar. we had the added luxury of having an upstairs patio all to ourselves.

let's see if i can recall what happened after that. we had a lovely Columns breakfast, then made our way over to Miz Smarty Pants' lovely Fountainbleu retreat. Let me tell y'all, Miz Smarty Pants, a.k.a. Laura, could give that Martha Stewart a run for her money. We had a smashing guest room with fresh roses, linen sprays, and candles galore! *And* she threw a fabulous soiree for Timmaay that evening with the chiminea blazing, dozens of candles, jambalaya, a cheese torte i'll not soon forget, and various and sundry other yummies. which were later augmented by Beth Oubre's bananas foster bread pudding. yes, you heard me right. it was heaven. we were serenaded by Tim's friend RJ, who did a mellow rendition of Beck's 'Loser", in addition to other tunes. Summer and Gary arrived from Jackson, Emily made a rare appearance, and a very good time was had by all.

at some point Laura and Tim and I all started talking like y'ats. (that's folks from deep in the Parrish for you yankee types.) Actually it was more like a cross between y'ats (almost a bronx accent) and the way New Orleans people talk in movies. Sort of Gone With The Wind-y/Blanche DuBoise-y. It was very odd and none of us could stop ourselves even when we tried. It was like after Katrina, staying with Gary (a Glaswegian) and Summer (a Jacksonian)-- everyone began to adopt a Scottish lilt. these things just happen.

Tim left on Halloween, and I went to stay with Chris and Brandy. Or was it Yaggy? They all put me up and were wonderful hosts. I've always depended on the kindness of.... see, there i go again!

This will be the longest post in the world if i don't start condensing. Here are some highlights:

- turn-down service with chocolates on pillow at Laura's;

- fog machine, bubble machine, strobe light, creepy halloween music, and wine on Laura's fantastic porch;

- going to Folahan's school and seeing all the children dressed up for halloween and jacked up on candy and soda;

- seeing the New Pornographers with Ian and Yaggy on Halloween;

-a lovely day at the zoo with Brandy;

- many drinks with Belle and Husband and Amy and Blake, esp. cocktails Chez Buchert/Woodruff;

- QT with Emily and Jerrilynn; down-slash-q-time with Chris and Brandy;

- Cocktails with the monkey house crew;

- Lots and Lots of great new orleans food (the 5-pound weight gain I foretold did indeed happen): Frankie and Johnny's, Crepe Nanou, Rivershack, Coop's, Langenstein's, Crabby Jack's, Felix's, Acme... i think i just peed a little remembering it...

- St. Joseph's Plantation tour in the Earth F***er (rented Ford Expedition), full of sightseers;

- and last but not least, of course, being reunited with my beloved Timothea.

The bad news: my suitcase broke shortly after arrival. piece of crap. it was only its fourth voyage. then it REALLY broke just as i was getting ready to leave! it had no handles and brandy had to haul it downstairs from the 5-9-4-1 for me! i left it with yaggy in case the Suitcase People wanted proof that it was all fooshed up, but when i emailed them, they said oh no problem, we'll credit you back, just throw that sucker out. they've also given me discounts when they run sales on things i just purchased at pre-sale prices. So that's my little plug for the suitcase people.

At the NOLA airport I saw something I'd been meaning to get on my stay: Barbeque Shrimp Mix!!! So as soon as I got home (Molly and Corinna picked me up, and they brought me a lei!! how sweet is that???) and got my wits about me, I went and got 6 pounds of scriuuumphs and made BBQ scrimps for the neighbors, catsitters, and colleagues. I also was hell-bent on recreating Langenstein's creole potato salad at home, and I am happy to say I cracked it! and, while that is happy news indeed, I must report that it, like all great food, has a Context. What I made tastes damn good, but it doesn't seem right eating it in Hawaii. I'm gonna, tho, every time I make potato salad!!

Yup, so now it's off to Iowa (BRRR! I was cold even in New Orleans! I packed better for Iowa, though. I even have a pair of grandma's leather & cashmere gloves to wear. yay!)

Hope all's well everywhere, and that happy halloweens were had by all.